Rubber Stamps Review

Archive for the ‘How To’ Category

When a rubber stamp in not used often, the rubber will begin to harden. This hardening of the rubber portion will then cause the stamp to create a “splotch” when impressed.

Solid stamps can be used on many surfaces including cloth or paper. However, for those of you who are having a hard time using solid stamps (especially on paper or a similar material) and keep getting “splotches”, no worries because it’s not just you! There are beautiful artwork and craftwork made from solid images and if you’re wondering how they can do it and you can’t stop fretting. There’s just some tricks to this trade.

Usually, when a rubber stamp is not used very often, the rubber will begin to harden. This hardening of the rubber portion will then cause the stamp to create a “splotch” when impressed. Now, solving this problem isn’t hard either as it’s very likely you’ll have the just thing to fix it: a pink eraser (make sure it’s a “good” eraser). Yep, that’s the secret ingredient to solving your splotch problems. You just scrub the rubber stamp with the eraser, brush of any eraser dust that have accumulated, ink the stamp however you do it and stamp. Voila! You’ll see that you no longer have a splotch on your paper!
However, if you do find that you STILL have a blotch, don’t worry. Instead of using an eraser, just try a fine-grit sandpaper such as an emery cloth. Just like you did with the eraser, rub the emery cloth on the rubber stamp, dust off and stamp. Using these eraser methods soften the rubber that has hardened and makes it more “elastic”.

If you’re aiming to fix image stamps (i.e. detailed images), you can also rely on the eraser technique to get out those blotches– however, be careful! Don’t scrub on the stamp too hard as you don’t want the image to be torn or damaged. Another possibility could be to fix the image after you stamp it already– just draw in the image part that’s missing. For this, you can use an embossing marker or an erasable pen, and then emboss it as you normally would.

Stamp positioners are indeed very useful for the stamp artist.

Are you unable to make the saying you want on your crafty card work? Or have you tried to make a nice border around a piece of artwork that you intend to frame but gave up on it because the border just wouldn’t go on straight? Well, try your luck with a stamp positioner.

With a stamp positioner, not only will you be able to squeeze a phrase in one line or make a border straight, you’ll also be able to use them to assist with scenery stamping, letter stamping, silhouetting and more! Stamp positioners are indeed very useful for the stamp artist.

You can many times find these stamp positioners at arts and crafts stores. However, you can probably find the positioners of these rubber stamps online in various rubber stamps stores. There are two main ones to choose from. First, there’s the L-shaped types made by companies such as Plaid and PSX. There’s also a T-shaped stamp positioner made by C-Thru Ruler. Besides those two, there’s also another one that’s shaped very similarly to the T-shaped positioner made by EK Success called the “Stamp-a-ma-jig” which is quite lightweight.

Positioners commonly include an acrylic frame and an acrylic sheet that the image gets stamped onto. To use it, you place the acrylic frame and the sheet together. Make sure that the frame part is touching both sides of the sheet. You then stamp your image on the sheet. Check to see that the edges of the stamp also touch the edges of the frame.

After doing so, you lay the sheet with the stamped image over the position you want it to be in on your project. Set the frame next to the sheet so that the sides touch one another. You should carefully hold the frame in place while removing the sheet. Finally, just impress the stamp onto your project, making sure the stamp touches both sides of the frame. When using the acrylic sheet, make sure to use only pigment or dye ink and NEVER use permanent ink on it. You should also clean the sheet thoroughly each time after use.

By using a stamp positioner, you can more easily create even borders, design scenes and adjust stamp appearances.

Sometimes the self-inking stamp becomes jammed or becomes stuck downwards, or will not go down; in other words, it just won’t move.

Sometimes the self-inking stamp becomes jammed or becomes stuck downwards, or will not go down; in other words, it just won’t move. When this happens, it is not particularly difficult to fix the stamp. If the self-inking stamp does not compress, it is usually the result of the ink pad slipping out of place which blocks the pat of the stamp when it is pushed down. In order to fix it, hold the stamp in one hand, then with the other hand, feel the ink pad on the front and back to determine if it has moved. If so, merely put the ink pad back into place.

If, on the other hand, the ink pad is already in place and the stamp will not compress, there may be a larger problem. In this case, return it to the place where you purchased it. There should be a warranty on the stamp.

If the self-inking stamp is stuck in a downwards position, look for a button or a cutout or some other mechanical device that locks the stamp in a compressed position. This is used when you are changing the ink pad. The self-inking stamp should release when it is slightly compressed a little further down. If not look for the button and try moving it then compressing and releasing. However, if this does not work, return it to the place of purchase.

When you are trying to fix your self-inking stamp, make sure you put a piece of scrap paper on your desk or other surface so that you don’t get an unwanted impression on your desk or important piece of paper as the stamp is dislodged. Sometimes all it take to release, is to gently push down on the top of the stamp.

Water based inks are contained in most inkpads, which causes the ink to merely sit on top of the paper, rather than absorb into the paper.

Right after you ink the pad, then put it back into the self inking stamp, the image will sometimes be too dark in some spots, too light in others and completely missing in others. This is a result of the little highs and lows that form on the surface due to the information on the die plate. When you take the pad out of the stamp, then you put it back in, it will not always line up correctly. In that case, all you need to do is to take the pad out, turn it at a 180 degree angle and put it back in. If you never did line it up, the pad would eventually conform to the shape of the die plate in its new position. However, this may take quite a bit of time, so it’s best to take it out and turn it around.

When you have items such as catalogues or brochures that you want to stamp with your company name, the stamp may not work well, or it may smear. The reason for this is that most catalogues and some brochures are composed of glossy paper which has a coating on it so it’s almost like having to write or stamp on a piece of glass. Water based inks are contained in most inkpads, which causes the ink to merely sit on top of the paper, rather than absorb into the paper. Thus, you need a quick drying ink, rather than a water-based ink in order for the image to dry. Begin with a dry ink pad and do not add quick drying ink to a regular ink pad as you will still have drying problems.

The quick drying ink contains a form of alcohol which evaporates rapidly and leaves pigments from the ink which form the image. As the pigments become hard on the surface, it will dry without leaving any liquid residue. The only significant drawback with a quick drying ink is that you may need to re-ink quite often or use a liquid thinner on the pad. It is also best to use an airtight bag that can be resealed in which to store the ink pad. Since it is quick drying ink, it will also dry quickly if the pad (or stamp) is left out and not sealed. It may eventually dry rock hard because all of the alcohol will evaporate.

You do not want to over-ink the pads because it will distort or damage the image.

After you imprint the stamp, there will sometimes be a problem with the image being too light. The reason for the lightness would be that there is not enough ink on the stamp. You should check to make sure that there is adequate ink on the stamp pad itself or on the pad that is inside your self-inking stamp. The pads are usually composed of a water based ink which will dry slowly; although they will dry more quickly in the winter due to the dry heat in the home. A solution to the lightness of the image is to re-ink the pad or purchase another ink pad. However, you do not want to over-ink the pads because it will distort or damage the image. It is best to add ink to the pad when you are finished using it, as it will have a chance to set in before you need to use it again. If you have a self-inking stamp, remove the pad from the stamp, or open the case, then add just enough ink so that the pad appears wet across the whole surface, but do not wet it too much so that it becomes soaked. Then let the pad sit overnight so that the ink can penetrate evenly through the pad. The next morning, return the pad to the stamp. You are now ready to stamp again.

If you pound a stamp hard down onto the stamp pad, you are merely pushing the ink further down into the bottom of the inkpad, whereas all you need to do is transport the ink from the pad to the paper. Carefully dab the stamp a few times on a pad that contains sufficient ink, then stamp it on the paper. Just pat it; don’t pound it.

Once you have carved your stamp, you should definitely mount it to make it easier to use.

After you have created your unique stamps by utilizing your new found skill of carving, you should consider mounting them on a wood block or another substance in order to make them somewhat easier to use. If you prefer to mount your stamp on a wooden block, you may purchase cushioning on which to do so. Another option is to cut a piece of a computer mouse pad as it makes for an adequate cushioning for mounting as well.

You may mount your stamp on the wooden block, or other substance, by using rubber cement as a method of adhesive to use in order to adhere the mount, cushioning and rubber stamp together.

You may also choose to use acrylic mounts to mount your rubber stamps together. There is one major benefit in using this method in that you only need to purchase one acrylic mount in a couple of sizes. You may then use the acrylic mounts with all of your stamps as they may act as a temporary mount. The acrylic mounting method consists of an acrylic block and plastic cling so that the stamp will adhere to the block on a temporary basis. It may also include also foam cushioning; however this cushioning may not be necessary depending on the thickness of the stamp rubber. And last, but not least, is the actual rubber stamp. You may purchase foam cushioning that already contains adhesive which has been applied to both sides. This feature makes the assembly of the mounting process more simple to achieve.

You can really develop your creative side by carving your very own rubber stamps.

In order to do so, you must have the following articles: An image to carve (it is best to start with a simple figure); blank rubber (rubber blocks and sheets are available); a cutting surface such as ink pad scrap paper for testing your stamp; and stamp carving tools. As for the stamp carving tools, those that are “V” shaped are easiest to use because they raise the excess rubber out as you cut. Some kits are offered with plastic handles and different sizes of carving tips such as straight blades, etc. Another type of kit has a wooden handle and different carving tips plus a block of rubber. The wooden handle sets make a good starter set, but the plastic handle is easiest to use because it is simpler to change carving tips than are those that have the wooden handles.

You first need to transfer your image to the rubber in order to have an image from which to carve around. You may trace an image with a pencil on tracing paper or a use photocopy impression; or make your own artwork. With either image, you must transfer the image to the rubber by putting the paper on the rubber with the image side down and rub with an iron on low heat; then peel up a corner of the paper while holding the remaining paper in position with the other hand, and check to see if the image has transferred. If it has not transferred, keep rubbing with the iron until the image has transferred adequately. This process should not take long, in fact, less than a minute.

If your kit contains a straight blade or craft knife, use it to cut straight down through the rubber, then cut the image from the remainder of the block. Select the proper carving tip to carve out the image. If the image is simple, use a larger tip; a smaller tip will work better for an image that has more detail.

Now carve away the portion of the rubber that does not have the transferred image. Make sure you cut away from yourself so that you don’t slip and cut yourself. After you have carved the image, ink your stamp and stamp it in order to test how it looks. You may carve some more, then test it again until you are pleased with the stamp.

A stamp positioning tool is available that can help you position your various stamping impressions so that you no longer have to guess where to position the stamp.

The tool is available in plastic or wood, and it contains two right angles. In order to use it, put a sheet of tracing paper into one of the right angles so that it fits snugly up to the very edges. Take a stamp that has been freshly inked; place the stamp into the right angle, then press down. Now remove the stamp and tracing paper.

If you are going to put a certain design on a card in a straight line, stamp the first image, then immediately re-ink the stamp and take the stamped tracing paper and move it to the place where you want to place the next image. Now hold the tracing paper firmly in place; then bring the stamp positioner into the same right angle you previously used. Make sure the edges fit perfectly, then remove the tracing paper and hold the positioner firmly in place so that it does not move. Now place the re-inked stamp into the right angle and press down; then remove the stamp and positioner.

Once you are comfortable using the positioner, try the masking procedure. You may then create a series of overlapping designs. One of the more simple items to begin with is the head of a flower, such as a daisy. In order to create a mask, first stamp the design onto a post-it note. Stamp it so that a portion of the design is on the reverse side of the sticky strip. Cut out the design. Stamp the first flower head and put the post-it note directly over the flower head. Then stamp the next flower head over a portion of the post-it note and a portion of the card; then remove the post-it note. The second flower head appears behind the first flower head. The first image you stamp will always be at the front.

Extra masks can be created by stamping the first one on the top sheet. Then cut through as many sheets as you can. In order to determine where to place them, use the stamp position and tracing paper.

To make sure your scissors, paper cutters and cutting utensils are in good shape, the following guidelines should help you keep all cutting utensils working properly.

Taking proper care of stamp cutting tools are important to making quality stamp projects and stamp bases. To make sure your scissors, paper cutters and cutting utensils are in good shape, the following guidelines should help you keep all cutting utensils working properly.

First of all, keep your cutting utensils sharp. Since sticky things, such as adhesive tapes, the rubber stamps and glues, can build residue up on your scissors and make them dull, you should clean them after each use (or a few uses, if you really don’t have time). One way to clean scissors is to use a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol to wipe the blades.

To keep your scissors in tip-top shape, you should also water the pivot screw. This is especially essential if the screw on the scissor is bit rusty. Loosen up the scissor to make handling easier by putting a drop of sewing machine oil on the screw.

To help your scissor keep its shape, use a sharpening stone to help it maintain its shape and easy cutting edge. Make sure you don’t use a knife sharpener as both are different and mixing it up can actually ruin the edge of your scissor. If you find that your blades are already dull with use, take it to a professional to get it sharpened. You can sometimes find such services at sewing or craft stores, although there is a small fee for it.

If you’re trying to sharpen the edges for a decorative-design type scissor, don’t use a sharpening stone. Instead, try cutting them through aluminum foil and then quickly cutting through waxed paper. For cleaning of the blades, you can easily just use a gummy eraser to rub on it.

Besides scissors, you should also keep your paper trimmers and cutters in good cutting condition. To make sure your projects will turn out well each time; just replace the blade of the trimmer or cutter when it doesn’t work properly. This includes indications such as having the paper rip or crumple instead of cleanly cutting through the paper. To make the blades last, you should also use a glass cutting surface instead of a rubber one as the blades will not cut into the glass as it would into the rubber. To keep hole-puncher cutters lasting longer, you can try putting them in a cooling unit such as a refrigerator to keep it brusque. You can also, like the decorative scissor edges, punch holes through aluminum paper to sharpen and then punch them quickly through wax paper to provide a lubricant to it. If your hole punchers are made from zinc, try just using wax paper or a very fine sandpaper (such as an emery cloth). If your hole puncher has a tendency to stick, you can place it in the freezer for about 20 minutes. Doing so will make the metal parts slightly shrink to make using it easier.